Sunday, October 26, 2014

Woodland Monsters

Many years back, I was involved in the creation of the game Mage Knight, put out by our (at that time) company, WizKids Games. The figures for the game were pre-painted plastics, with masters sculpted in the USA and mass-produced in China.

A little-known fact was that 32 of those initially released Mage Knight figures were struck in white metal as limited edition hobby releases. I've had a box of them stashed away in my basement for well over a decade.

Anyway, as my thoughts and efforts have recently turned to RPGs, I remembered having these models and dug through some boxes to find some new RPG monsters. And the result...

We have the Wood Golem and the Living Elemental. Of all the initial Mage Knight releases, these two were my favourite models, and I was glad to find them in metal. Super fun to paint up, and I went to town on the Wood Golem giving him some extra love on the base and covering him with moss.

Hope you like the end result.

'Til next time.


  1. Wow, those are painted hundreds of times better than the pre-paints.

  2. I have the Living Elemental as the plastic mini and think it is a great sculpt.

    I saw the metal models at some show or other, but thought the price a little steep - especially as the plastics were so cheap.

    I think you have done a great job on the both of them.

    Well done.


  3. Hey, Kevin. I'm having trouble finding a way to protect my weathering powders without severely altering their color. I'm using a paint scheme on my Cryx that's very similar to yours, but my MIG rust powders go quite dark every time I try to seal or protect them.

    I'm applying them with plain distilled water and a touch of flow-aid. MIG's own sealer darkens the colors a bit, but anything else I use (matte medium, FUTURE, etc) turns them deep brown.

    Any advice?

    1. Rotten...
      Absolutely. The key is to not put a sealer on them (like Dullcoat...or whatever). Seal the model before you put on the weathering powder, but apply the powder with rubbing alcohol. When the alcohol dries, the powder (which will not darken) is affixed to the model. Sure, you may get a bit of wear when you handle them, but you handle the models in areas where rust and dust would be worn off anyway. If your base paint and metal chip work is solid underneath, you'll get a very good final result. Don't lay down the pigments with water.

    2. I have to say, it never even occurred to me to not seal it at all. It's an interesting idea. I'll give it a shot, thanks.